Last month I wrote about the custard cotton candy–like interior of the best French toast ever at Chicago's new breakfast spot Jam.
Well, call me fickle, but I've fallen in love with a new piece of brioche: the deep-fried French toast served at The Publican for brunch. I mean, yeah, they had me at deep-fried, but then they went and topped the whole thing with silver dollar–sized slices of foie gras torchon, drizzled it with fresh strawberry preserves, and girded the toast with house-made fennel and orange rind–stuffed sausage links.
The heat of the toast melts the butterlike foie so you basically get a rich, creamy strawberry river infused with foie gras fat that also picks up a snow of powdered sugar and pools on the plate. Once the toast was gone, and much to the chagrin of my wife, I started spoon the foiesugarberry residue off the plate with my finger, I was so smitten.
The deep-frying of the toast made it a little dense, and so in a perfect world, I'd probably mix the custard cotton candy–like textured Jam brioche with the Publican toppings and sausage. But when you can also order cider vinegar-splashed spicy pork rinds and French fries fried in beef suet and pork lard (the best in Chicago right now) along with your breakfast, really, what's to complain about?