TGI Fry-Day

Reviews of fried food in Chicago.

TGI Fry-Day: Sour Cream aka "Old Fashioned" from Dinkel's Bakery

Editor's note: Every Friday we'll be bringing you the best food in Chicago that has been battered and fried. As long as it has spent some time in hot, bubbling oil, we'll write about it for TGI Fry-Day. Got a nomination? Let us know.

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[Photograph: Joe Roy]

When I eat doughnuts, I feel like the guy in LCD Soundsystem's "Losing My Edge." I liked doughnuts before they were cool. I was there. As a little boy, I used to eat doughnuts with my dad on Saturday mornings. In high school, I stopped into a little doughnut shop once a week and spent under $4.00 to enjoy two to three doughnuts and a chocolate milk off a cafeteria tray. But I'm losing my edge... to the kids willing to check Doughnut Vault's Twitter account for availability and wait in long lines to pay prices that would have made our grandfathers spit their coffee across the counter. Everything that these kids know about doughnuts is more relevant than everything that I know.

But when I yearn for a taste of the old days, before everything got so hip and trendy, I can find solace in Dinkel's Bakery. 90 years young, Dinkel's serves a variety of fresh-from-the-fryer doughnuts every day. The one that really got to me was their Sour Cream aka "Old Fashioned." Sour cream doughnuts aren't really much to look at unless you're in the know. Trust me when I say that this one is a beaut. The dough is fried just long enough to create a completely crispy shell on the outside without compromising the moist, spongy center. Barely a whisper of glaze is applied to the top, which is good, because the best bites are the crunchy ones around the edges. Is candied dough a thing? It should be.

Rather than being so grumpy, maybe I should just have another doughnut and be grateful for the wealth of places here in Chicago where I can actually order fried dough. I'm losing my edge.

Dinkel's Bakery

3329 N Lincoln Avenue Chicago, IL 60657 (map)
773-281-7300
www.dinkels.com

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