[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

I knew that Bucktown's Las Palmas only had one sandwich on its lunch menu, but I was convinced a different one had been dropped on my table when I took a look at the torta de Milanesa ($8). In my mind, tortas require certain components, which add texture and variety to each bite. For every crunchy ingredient, there needs to be a smear of creamy refried beans or sliced avocado. Also, it helps if there is something acidic or spicy to counteract a fatty filling. But Las Palmas version doesn't have those elements, making this taste more like a fried chicken sandwich with lettuce and tomato than anything else.

Taken on those terms, it mostly works. The very thinly pounded chicken has an extra-crunchy crust. Though the roll is a little over toasted, it makes for a fine foundation. Still, expectations are expectations, and I wouldn't argue with anyone if they wanted to slip some pickled jalapeños into the middle of this.

Las Palmas Restaurant

1835 West North Avenue, Chicago, IL 60622 (map)
773-289-4991
laspalmaschicago.com‎