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[Photograph: Joe Roy]

Why are properly cooked, delicious breakfast potatoes the exception rather than the rule? More often than not, the inventive and playful brunch dish you're about to dive into is brought down by seasonless, colorless, and sad-looking potato quarters whose purpose seems to be to provide starchy filler rather than add anything to the meal. And let's not even get started on undercooked centers: I'll admit that the humble tuber takes a little bit of practice to learn to cook it right, but these are professional restaurants we're talking about here!

Since opening, the House Potatoes ($4.00) at Longman & Eagle have gone through a number of iterations, each improving on the last. In fact, the first time I had them, the potatoes suffered from the same characteristics described above. As recently as Mother's Day, I remedied this by subbing in a side of their excellent Beef Fat Fries (I'd recommend this trick anywhere where the breakfast potatoes are less than satisfactory). But not anymore, baby. Longman has their house potatoes so dialed in at this point that I may crave them even more than the housemade sausage when I get a hankering for the PBR breakfast (no small feat if you've ever had it).

House potato perfection is accomplished in a multi-stepped cooking process. Yellow potatoes are roasted whole until cooked through. When an order comes up, they're halved, gently smashed, deep fried in beef tallow, and finished with a generous tossing of butter, sliced scallions, and salt. Pillowy on the inside and crunchy on the outside, these are potatoes that are more than worthy to sop up the residual free range egg yolk on your plate.

Longman & Eagle

2657 N Kedzie Avenue Chicago, IL 60647 (map)
773-276-7110
longmanandeagle.com

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