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[Photograph: Joe Roy]

Summer is in full swing, which has special significance to this and other Indiana transplants in Chicago: it's county fair season, and in particular, time to eat deep fried fair foods, as in funnel cake, elephant ears, and any number of fried potato preparations. The problem? Our thriving metropolis isn't exactly teeming with fairs (when's the last time you saw a tractor pull here in the city? Anyone?)

But if you need your fair fried food fix and you need it now, Square Bar & Grill has you covered, at least when it comes to sweets. The Deep Fried Milky Way ($5.00) brings the full fair experience to a busy strip of Belmont Avenue, and as an added bonus, you can enjoy it off an actual plate in the air conditioning. Given the choice, I'll alway forgo a Milky Way in favor of his more flavorfully diverse compadre, the Snickers. But deep frying changes the game: the nougat and caramel meld into a creamy, gooey center, without those pesky peanuts getting in the way. The slab of ice cream and caramel raspberry sauce garnishes are gratuitous—a simple sprinkle of powdered sugar is really all that's needed. Now if you'll excuse me, I'm going to see if I can find a Tilt-A-Whirl around here somewhere.

Square Bar & Grill

2849 W Belmont Avenue Chicago, IL 60618 (map)
773-267-0123 
squarechicago.com

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