[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

Scoring a satisfying gyros sandwich in Chicago is mostly about luck. Since most places use the exact same ingredients, success is judged by how caramelized the meat is before it's sliced off the spit and heaped on to a pita. If given enough time in front of the flame, you have a satisfying lunch full of crisp shards of salty meat; If not, you have the sandwich I encountered recently at Greektown Gyro. Though it looked right, the meat was limp. Add to that a soft pita and a pool of white creamy sauce (not to mention pale tomatoes and sharp onions) and each bite ended up tasting kind of bland and homogenous. Perhaps I went at the wrong time, but with so many other options around the neighborhood, I'll be waiting awhile before I test my luck here again.

Greektown Gyros

239 South Halsted Street, Chicago, IL 60661 (map)


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