[Photograph: Debbie Carlos]

4 Suyos, a Logan Square restaurant serving both traditional and more modern Peruvian fare, has a pretty sexy pork sandwich on its brunch menu and her name is Pan con Chicharron ($8). From seeing what other diners were ordering, it seems like a really popular one, too.

The chicharron arrives piled high on a roll with salsa criolla and some thinly sliced and fried sweet potato. Now, many people think shatteringly crunchy, curled, deep fried pork skin when they think of chicharron, but in this case the meat is thickly sliced pork that's been braised and fried. The tenderness of the meat, along with some crispy end pieces, works extremely well in the sandwich, and the salsa criolla, which consists of marinated thinly sliced red onion and cilantro, adds brightness and acidity to the juicy, fatty pork. The sweet potato also provides a hint of sweet and a nice textural quality. Plus, seeing that little bit of bright orange peek through is a pleasant surprise.

Already a pretty full sandwich, the thick roll was so tall I could barely bite in, though it did a good job at holding everything together. Adding a couple of eggs for $3 extra may be gilding the lily here, and yet, I can never pass up a good fried egg. The sandwich left me feeling obliterated but happy.

4 Suyos Peruvian Cuisine

2727 West Fullerton Avenue, Chicago, IL 60647 (map)


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