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Reviews of fried food in Chicago.

TGI Fry-Day: Iron Fist Fish & Chips from Revolution Brewing

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[Photograph: Joe Roy]

The ubiquity of fish and chips is both its blessing and curse. Any time you have a craving for the newspaper-wrapped British classic, you can walk into most self-respecting bars that serve food and find a serviceable version. But making the jump from do-no-harm to downright tasty is trickier, and it comes down to technique. The Iron Fist Fish & Chips ($14.00) from Revolution Brewing gets most of the way there, though one extra step could potentially put it over the top.

It gets points for the roasted red pepper remoulade and honey jalapeño slaw—the former is an inventive departure from the standard tartar sauce that doesn't collapse under the weight of its elevated-sounding name, while the latter adds a respectably spicy tang to each bite of the rich fish. Speaking of which, the Atlantic Scrod (which Wikipedia tells me is a generic term for whitefish that fooled at least me into thinking I was eating something besides the typical cod), is battered and fried properly, with the batter itself remaining on the fish and contributing that yeasty note characteristic of a well-balanced beer batter. The fries were salty and crisp, though after their stint under the hot and heavy fish, they were floppier than some prefer.

My only complaint was that the fish itself was under seasoned. A quick salting of the fish itself right before the batter dip would convert the dish from better-than-most to truly excellent. Regardless though, this is certainly a dish that would go down well with one of Revolution's many pints, and one I'll order again when I can pull myself away from the other stand-outs on their surprisingly solid menu.

Revolution Brewing

2323 N Milwaukee Avenue Chicago, IL 60647 (map)
773-227-2739
revbrew.com

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