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Reviews of Chicago sandwiches.

A Sandwich a Day: Austrian Sandwich at Austrian Bakery & Deli

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[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

Let's get right to it. Those pickles? Tangy, crunchy, and awesome. The black olives? Pitted, favorless, and boring. Oh, and that sandwich in the background? That's the Austrian Sandwich ($7.49), which I thought would be a wise order at a place called the Austrian Bakery & Deli in Lincoln Park. But looking back, it's hard to tell what exactly makes this so Austrian, especially since the three kinds of salami—Hungarian, Genoa, and German—all are named for places not in Austria. Perhaps I'm missing something.

That said, the Styrian dressing, which is made from pumpkin seed oil, is definitely a specialty of Austria. Plus, it's served on some excellent house-made rye bread, which the bakery calls Back to the Earth. Made from 100 percent rye flour, this bread does not mess around. Its assertive flavor provides a great foil for the fatty meats. And yes, it is a good idea to stick a few of those wonderful pickles inside the sandwich.

Austrian Bakery

2523 N Clark Street, Chicago, IL 60614 (map)
773-244-9922
austrianbakery.com/

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