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[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

Perhaps the most astonishing fact about the Piggy Moo Cluck Sandwich ($9) from Kingsbury Street Cafe is how reasonable it is despite the name. I was expecting one seriously oversized and meaty monster, one that combined the forces of pork, beef, and chicken into one crazy bite. Instead I got this restrained and, dare I say, rather balanced sandwich.

I think it's the "moo" part of the name that threw me off. While bacon and a fried egg took care of the "piggy" and the "cluck," cheddar cheese was used for the "moo." Not that cheddar cheese is light by any means, but only enough was used to lend a little salty bite.

Honestly, this sandwich succeeds on the strength of the bread, which actually makes sense considering the restaurant was started by the folks behind Work of Art, a catering and baking company. The house-made ciabatta is the opposite of dense and dry. It's crumbly on the outside, almost like a biscuit, which adds slight crunch to each bite. But it's also soft and airy in the middle. In fact, don't be surprised if you find yourself ignoring all the fillings and focusing all your attention on the bread.

Kingsbury Street Cafe

1523 North Kingsbury Street, Chicago, IL 60642 (map)
312-280-1718
kingsburystreetcafe.com‎

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