[Photograph: Josh Conley]

I have the extreme (mis)fortune of being surrounded in my life by vegetarians. I miss sharing entrees with my wife. I mean, nothing says date night like just grunting "Uhhhh" and "Mmmm" in unison over a gooey bacon cheeseburger or some duck fat fries. But I said (mis), because I've been turned on to some excellent non-meat options, which is what led me to the Veggie Dagwood Stacked Sandwich ($8.95, with one side) at M. Henry.

In a word, this sandwich is good. Not great, but good. With fresh ingredients and robust flavors, it has a lot going for it. But at a whopping 11 ingredients, it is probably trying to do too much (at least three in there that you just can't hear over the white noise of the sharp cheddar, walnut pesto, and Dijon mustard). The tempeh is one of them, and the biggest disappointment of the sandwich. At first I thought they had forgotten it, and when I did find the squishy, bland strip buried at the bottom, I almost wish they had. What should be a crispy texturizing centerpiece really just gets lost in here. The bread, a hearty, soft multi-grain of whatever the A4 of bread sizes is called, is very good. It's too soft, though, untoasted, and ultimately haplessly under-staffed to accommodate the holiday crowd of visitor ingredients overrunning it.

M. Henry

5707 North Clark Street, Chicago, IL 60660 (map)


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