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Reviews of Chicago sandwiches.

A Sandwich a Day: The Dirty Sanchez at Wagyu Wagon

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[Photograph: Josh Conley]

Despite the name, I really wanted to like the Dirty Sanchez ($10 with fries) from the Wagyu Wagon. Hard. Like Napoleon wanted to shop Big & Tall hard. I mean, how can you go wrong with a burger comprised of 80% of the arguably the world's most renowned ground beef and the other 20% bacon? Well, you treat the meat like a delicious, sizzling sin that you atone for with a confessional series of toppings. And it left me, dare I say, in utter burgatory.

The patty itself is nice and crispy, but ultimately ends up being a reconnaissance unit waiting for texture reinforcements that never show up. Instead, the mush parade of avocado, chorizo, pepper jack, roasted poblano, and spicy ketchup march through at uneven intervals. The poblano was bitingly bitter, and the chorizo apparently had better things to do, because it showed up halfway through. The spicy ketchup was a highlight, and I'd just as soon have that, minus the rest of the hubbub, and call it square. As it was, I just kept biting into it with Tree of Life resolve, trying to make sense of it.

Wagyu Wagon

Website: thewagyuwagon.com
Twitter: @thewagyuwagon
310-927-4966

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