A Sandwich a Day

Reviews of Chicago sandwiches.

A Sandwich a Day: The New Yorker at JB's Deli

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[Photograph: Josh Conley]

Never judge a book by its cover. Always, however, judge a pharmacy by its overstuffed sandwiches. Nestled inside Gordono's Pharmacy, JB's Deli—self proclaimed "one of a few Jewish delis"—is as kitschy as some of the sandwich names (My Cardiologist Needs a New Car or Don't Hide the Salami!) suggest. But if we're going to let the sandwich speak for itself, then order the more demure New Yorker ($10.95 with a side) and fuhgetaboutit.

This is a properly stacked deli sandwich—not an easy thing to find in Chicago. Well over a half-pound of thinly-sliced smoked turkey appropriately provides the majority of the girth (and flavor) here. It is abutted by thick slices of Muenster cheese and sweet, slightly tangy cole slaw, and then held together with Thousand Island dressing. Challah bread is a great choice, and the panini press gives it a nice crunch, though it doesn't quite warm it enough to melt the cheese. And that's it. No frills, no pretenses, no apologies. Like the place itself, you can take it or leave it. I recommend taking it, and grabbing a strip of candy buttons on your way out.

JB's Deli

5501 North Clark Street, Chicago, IL 60640 (map)
773-728-0600
jbsdelichicago.com

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