Serious Eats: Chicago
A Sandwich a Day: The Bonaparte at Marmalade
As I was eating The Bonaparte ($8.95 with potatoes) at Marmalade, and eating and eating it, I had three thoughts. Number one, could the name of this behemoth be ironic? Number two, does Burger King still make Croissan'Wiches? And number three, why does it keep reminding (and reminding and reminding) me of a long, rambling story an acquaintance might bestow upon you? There are a few details missing, and it never quite gets to the point, but I was too polite to walk away.
I'm usually of the opinion that most sandwiches are nothing if not over-dressed, but the Bonaparte is a little too Spartan even for me. The scrambled eggs are copious and fluffy, and the white cheddar adds a nice bite. Bacon chimes in with, well, bacon-ness. But it was not the least bit crispy, which could have provided some much-needed texture, as it is served on a ginormous soft croissant with nary a flake. But perhaps the Waterloo of this sandwich is its lack of condiment (or acid in general), when the obvious choice seemed to be Dijon mustard. C'est la vie. The accompanying potatoes, though, are some of the best I've had—crisp, rich, and savory.