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[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

To say I've enjoyed the revamped menu at Masa Azul is probably a slight understatement. I chronicled the amazing tacos last week, gave a shout out to the grilled quail and Mexican Scotch egg, and even found time to talk up the Tour de Mexico, the restaurant's incredible Margarita variation. I could go on for awhile, but I'll stop with just one more: the churros ($5). I thought Xoco had written the final word on these fried treats, at least in Chicago. Whereas most versions found around town are oversized and heavy, Xoco's skinny little sugar-coated treats are delicate and crunchy, perfect for dunking in one of the restaurant's exceptional hot chocolates. So, where's that leave Masa Azul?

Masa Azul's churros are thin, though slightly less crunchy. But what they trade in texture, they make up in contrast. The interior is pillowy and soft, making for a bigger surprise when you bite in. They are served with a little saucer of dark chocolate sauce, which you are supposed to politely dip into. The dessert also arrives with a tiny spoon, because the servers noticed that guests were using their fingers to polish off the rest of the sauce when the churros were exhausted. Honestly, it's a nice gesture, but nothing quite works as well as a finger for scooping up every last bit of that sauce.

Masa Azul

2901 West Diversey Avenue, Chicago, IL 60647 (map)
773-687-0300
masaazul.com‎

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