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Reviews of Chicago sandwiches.

A Sandwich a Day: Jason's Favorite at Vito & Nick's

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[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

You don't visit for Vito & Nick's for a sandwich, but you probably already knew that. It's not that the many overloaded and cheese-covered options are bad, it's just that the South Side restaurant already serves some justifiably famous Chicago-style thin crust pizza, and you're better off filling up on as many slices of it as you can. But if one of your dining companions just ran a marathon or has a hole in his or her stomach that needs filling, then it is permissible to take a look at the remainder of the menu and order Jason's Favorite ($6.95), Vito & Nick's strange variation of an Italian beef combo.

The Jason in question apparently thought a regular combo of Italian beef and Italian sausage was far too dainty. That's the only way to explain why cheese was added and garlic bread subbed in for the regular bun. The latter change works in a ridiculous way, which is more than I can say about the blanket of cheese, which manages to muffle the flavor of everything else. It must be removed! Luckily, you can peel off the flavor-killing ingredient in one fell swoop.

What you're left with is a pretty good combo, which isn't quite as beefy or juicy as the best versions, but more than holds its own against the many inferior versions hawked around town. The spicy grilled Italian sausage is particularly good. Still, your friend is still more apt to pick off slices from neighboring pies than finish this behemoth.

Vito & Nick's Pizzeria

8433 South Pulaski Road, Chicago, IL 60652 (map)
773-735-2050
vitoandnick.com‎

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