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[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

Is it distressing that the best thing about the pulled chicken sandwich ($8, small) at Fat Willy's Rib Shack has nothing to do with the meat in the middle? Sure, the chicken is fine, I suppose, even if it does lack any noticeable smoke flavor. The bread sure doesn't top the list, either. It's a little too indistinct to matter much, even if it does hold everything together.

Instead, what really saves this sandwich from being a total wash is the smoked jalapeƱo mayo, which brings both heat and creaminess to the picture. It is also genuinely smokey, helping to somewhat picking up the slack from the chicken. Still, it's hard to recommend this order when there are very good rib tips and hot links awaiting you.

Fat Willy's Rib Shack

2416 W Schubert Avenue Chicago, IL 60647 (map)
773-782-1800
fatwillys.com

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