A Sandwich a Day

Reviews of Chicago sandwiches.

A Sandwich a Day: The Short Rib Tartine at Fork

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[Photograph: Josh Conley]

The Short Rib Tartine ($12) at Fork is an open-faced brunch sandwich full of sports metaphors. There's a lot of talent here, and it's obviously well-coached, but the roster never fully jells. The solution to this armchair coach seems pretty simple. It doesn't require free agency or cuts or trades; to borrow from Stacey King, it's all about K.Y.P. (Know Your Personnel).

This sandwich has all the components of a title contender. The lineup is superb; it just has trouble managing the rotation. The braised beef short ribs and pair of fried eggs (I think one would have sufficed) provide an abundance of richness. The oven-roasted tomatoes add a wonderful counterbalance, but just don't get enough playing time. Neither does the fantastic horseradish cream, which is tasked with fighting through the screen of shredded romaine. With great components at play here, this is a playoff-caliber sandwich. Ultimately, I just wanted it to play a bit more to its own strengths.

Fork

4600 North Lincoln Avenue, Chicago, IL 60625 (map)
773-751-1500
forkchicago.net

Josh Conley had a revolutionary idea that was going to change the world. But then somebody else patented the Snuggie. He says a bunch of other things HERE.

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