I think we all agree that the centerpiece of a reuben sandwich is the corned beef. That blend of spicy and savory and salty is what makes the sandwich go, and if it's not there can what remains really be called a reuben?

If it can't, then the Scottish Salmon Reuben at Local in Hilton's Gold Coast location is just a pretty darn good salmon sandwich. Though salmon is switched for the corned beef, everything else is still very much there, if in varying degrees. A mild but very flavorful sauerkraut sits atop the Thousand Island dressing, while melty Swiss peeks over the side of the meat. All that goodness is found between two pieces of beautifully marbled rye, just sturdy enough to keep everything contained and not let any sauce or juice break down the construction.

The large slab of salmon is cooked carefully, with just a trace of pink in the middle. The underside of the filet has a bit of crust, which adds a nice crunch to the sandwich with just a hint of extra flavor. The resulting combination of ingredients can be a bit oily, but just tell yourself it's just all the extra Omega-3 fatty acids dripping onto your fingers.

The Local

198 E Delaware Place Chicago, IL 60611 (map)

About the author: Nathan Lurz is an intern at Serious Eats Chicago. When he's not reviewing the occasional sammich, he spends his time trying to convince people to pay him to be a journalist and being amazed he is a professional sandwich reviewer. Follow his wittiness on Twitter at @LurzBlurbz

Comments can take up to a minute to appear - please be patient!

Previewing your comment: