[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

Few fried fish dishes in Chicago are as well known as the fish and chips ($10.25) at Duke of Perth in Lakeview. Though not my particular favorite version around (that'd probably be Owen & Engine or Pleasant House), it's easy to see the appeal. Featuring two cod fillets crusted in a beer batter, along with crunchy chips, peas, and all the malt vinegar you'd like, the plate is satisfying in a straightforward and unpretentious way. It makes you realize how often pubs butcher the dish, serving up a soggy, greasy mess.

But I'm guessing that the real reason Duke of Perth's fish and chips is so well known is the all-you-can-eat special on Wednesdays and Fridays, when the same $10.95 rewards you with as many fried fillets as you can stomach (tip: don't be a hero). Also, I'd be remiss if I failed to mention the pub's excellent Scotch selection. It's the kind of list that makes you want to sit around and sample. Taking that into consideration, maybe after a few sips another round of fish is a good idea.

Duke of Perth

2913 North Clark Street, Chicago, IL 60657 (map)


Comments can take up to a minute to appear - please be patient!

Previewing your comment: