A Sandwich a Day

Reviews of Chicago sandwiches.

A Sandwich a Day: Hero Meatball Sandwich at Bridge Bar

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[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

A hero should be a glorious, triumphant creation, right? By its very name, the sandwich should demand respect from every lesser specimen on the menu. It doesn't matter if said glory comes from an excess of meat or toppings, the hero must be an awesome sight to behold and eat.

To Bridge Bar's credit, the meatball hero attempts to recreate the awe without taking the obvious route. Instead of a couple ladles of tomato sauce and a blanket of cheese, the meatballs stand proudly alone, ready to fend for themselves. Fortunately they are tender, well seasoned, and more than up to the task. Caramelized onions form a sweet and savory cushion, while some creamy cheese spread on the roll lends funk.

I've never encountered a meatball sub quite like it, and the kitchen almost pulls it off—if only they used better bread. Instead, the roll is both chewy and fragile, splitting at the seams after one bite. Though toasted, the innards remain frustratingly cottony and tough, making the sandwich a slog to get through when it should be a celebration. With so much going right, this hero deserves better.

Bridge Bar Chicago

315 North LaSalle Boulevard, Chicago, IL 60654 (map)
312-822-0100
bridgebarchicago.com‎

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