Serious Eats: Chicago
A Sandwich a Day: Subpocalypse at Costello's
Sometimes, even the best sandwich places fall into this temptation: "Let's put enough different toppings for THREE sandwiches into ONE. Brilliant!" But the only thing that comes out of this pursuit of the ultimate mega-wich is a mess of meat and cheese whose ingredients are largely indiscernable.
Thankfully, the Subpocalypse from Costello's bucks the trend ($6.89). Sure, it's exhausting just reading the ingredient list: turkey, ham, capicola, jalapeño bacon, cheddar, pepper jack, lettuce, tomato, onion, pepper rings, and chipotle ranch. But from the very first bite, you could taste each ingredient.
First came the smokiness of the turkey, which was the primary meat in the sandwich. Then a slight hint of ham, followed by the saltiness of the capicola, and spiciness of the jalapeño bacon. You even detect the mild cheddar and the heat from the pepper jack. It's all laced with the creaminess of the surprisingly light-handed ranch dressing, with the hot vinegar crunchiness of the peppers right at the end.
All this food does put the consumer in a bit of a food coma—especially when paired with a side of the chipotle mac and cheese—but your taste buds will forgive you, even if your stomach doesn't right away.
About the author: Nathan Lurz is an intern at Serious Eats Chicago. When he's not reviewing the occasional sammich, he spends his time trying to convince people to pay him to be a journalist and being amazed he is a professional sandwich reviewer. Follow his wittiness on Twitter at @LurzBlurbz