[Photograph: Josh Conley]

Conte di Savoia is an Italian grocery smack in heart of Little Italy, where you can find a wide variety of everything from olive oils to imported wines. And since browsing the aisles for sea-salted capers and fresh mozzarella is known to stimulate the appetite, they are fully prepared with a deli counter that turns out great, no-frills sandwiches.

The Italian sub ($4.75) is the most complex of the bunch, featuring the salty trifecta of ham, salami, and capocollo. The ham gets overshadowed here by the garlic of the salami and a bit of heat from the capocollo. The provolone cuts the salt just slightly. Shredded lettuce adds a nice crunch, while the tomatoes are nice and juicy. You can add mayo or oil and vinegar, and a mere forty cents will score you some sweet or hot peppers. The bread is a hearty, soft Italian roll that, while good, does lack a certain coveted crustiness. This leads to a bit more tug and pull on the outside, but the rewards on the inside make it well worth it.

Conte di Savoia.

1428 West Taylor Street, Chicago, IL 60607 (map)
Conte di Savoia

Josh Conley is single-handedly trying to re-introduce the verb beget into the everyday lexicon. He traveled to Easter Island one Christmas out of sheer irony. He excises a hefty syntax, and shamelessly promotes the color orange. His wife begat him two small children that he regularly belittles HERE.


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