[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

The lamb and beef gyro ($7.50) at Covo Gyro Market is the antidote to every middling, greasy, overstuffed, and disappointing gyro that uses slices cut from one of those uniform cylinders of meat. Sure, occasionally you'll find a satisfying version, but few can hope to measure up to this one from Covo, especially not when every other element of the sandwich is given its due.

Covo wisely stacks its own meat for each spit. Sliced off freshly for each order, the beef and lamb shards are charred but tender, which nicely showcases the unique marinade of garlic and other, unnamed herbs and spices. The meat is tossed in a soft and warm pita, and then topped with whatever you'd like. I went the traditional route, and even here Covo impresses. Instead of mushy tomatoes, these are red and plump, while the red onion slices are thin, crunchy, and sweet. And forget about the mysterious "white sauce" that most places use; the tzatziki at Covo is acidic and only slightly creamy.

Covo Gyro Market

1482 Milwaukee Avenue, Chicago, IL 60622 (map)


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