A Sandwich a Day

Reviews of Chicago sandwiches.

A Sandwich a Day: Oyster Po'Boy at Dixie Kitchen

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[Photograph: Josh Conley]

I don't like to brag, but I can tell you more intimate details of my first po'boy than I could my first kiss. It was nearly two decades ago, my first visit to New Orleans, and part of it was surely was the novelty, the ambiance, etc. But then the other part was the simple pleasure that was fried, fresh crawfish piled on a split, crusty French roll with lettuce, tomato, pickles, and mayo. Like a BLT, it's so simple on paper, yet so hard to perfect. I've yet to encounter anything quite like it again, even after a trip to Dixie Kitchen.

The Oyster Po'Boy ($12.95 with side) has a lot of good things working for it. The oysters are good-sized and meaty. The salty brine of the oysters is cut by a subtle sweetness in the cornbread dusting, and they are fried up nice and crunchy, then piled high on a French roll. A little lettuce, tomato, and just the right amount of tangy remoulade round out the ingredients. It is hearty and big and tough to pick up. My only real issue with it was the softness of the bread. It didn't collapse, but it just didn't have much personality, and very little chew. Still, it's a worthy effort; not first-kiss memorable, maybe, but good.

Dixie Kitchen

825 Church Street, Evanston, IL 60201 (map)
847-733-9030
Dixie Kitchen

Josh Conley is single-handedly trying to re-introduce the verb beget into the everyday lexicon. He traveled to Easter Island one Christmas out of sheer irony. He excises a hefty syntax, and shamelessly promotes the color orange. His wife begat him two small children that he regularly belittles HERE.

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