A Sandwich a Day

Reviews of Chicago sandwiches.

A Sandwich a Day: Sriracha Shrimp Roll at Lloyd's

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[Photograph: Josh Conley]

A great sandwich, like a film or song or other piece of exquisitely crafted art, should leave you wanting more. One more bite or scene or echoed refrain—you just don't want it to end. And then there are the others, that leave you wanting more for all the wrong reasons, and this where the sriracha shrimp roll ($12.95) at Lloyd's enters the discussion.

This sandwich sounds so right, yet winds up being an exercise in minimalism. The shrimp are good and have a little heat from the sriracha, but they could have used a nice sear on them. The celery could have been a nice, crunchy counterpoint, but again, it's so Spartan here that I wondered why bother? The common denominator is that there's just not enough stuff here to fill the lobster roll it's all served on. And that buttery, toasted roll is just dandy. But here it's like a piccolo showing up at a death metal show; beautiful instrument, just the wrong concert.

Lloyd's

1 South Wacker Drive Chicago, IL 60606 (map)
312-402-6900
Lloyd's

Josh Conley is single-handedly trying to re-introduce the verb beget into the everyday lexicon. He traveled to Easter Island one Christmas out of sheer irony. He excises a hefty syntax, and shamelessly promotes the color orange. His wife begat him two small children that he regularly belittles HERE.

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