[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

Would Al Capone approve of the Reuben ($10.25) at Exchequer? I pondered that question while sitting at the bar of this old school Loop joint, as Capone's sly mug stared down at me from every wall. To be sure, he certainly didn't eat one here—this specific restaurant didn't even open until over twenty years after his death. But the restaurant does exude old Chicago reasonably well.

Back to the sandwich. Considering Capone's girth, he'd have no trouble devouring all of this exceptionally messy sandwich. Even if the corned beef is on the drier side, it's saved somewhat by the creamy Thousand Island dressing, which is also served in a cup on the side (dip your fries in it). Still, if he happened to be alive today, and needed my advice, I'd recommend heading for the nearby Eleven City Diner or Fumare Meats.


226 South Wabash Avenue, Chicago, IL 60604 (map)


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