[Photograph: Josh Conley]

Maybe I've just been extremely lucky with my sandwich picks, but I really haven't run into one I didn't finish, until now. It's too bad, because I wanted to like Lulu Belle's Pancake House. And it is kind of a cute place, with an eclectic Southern coffee bar vibe, where iced mini-biscuits are served up when you sit down. Perhaps I ordered wrong, but this is a sandwich column, and the biscuit 'wich ($7.25) was the recommendation of my server.

The problem with the sandwich, aside from a dearth of imagination, is mostly in the proportions. The "one egg" is just a seemingly endless Pangea of egg yellow floating on an oceanic buttermilk biscuit. Every once in a while you come upon a buoyed little piece of sausage, the equivalent of one cut-up link, not nearly enough to go around. And why not a patty? The pieces invariably fell out, one by one, the sandwich's stock dropping with each one. This hulking biscuit itself is okay, but a bit dry, which is only exacerbated by the lack of condiment. I'm sure there are good things on the menu, this just isn't it.

Lulu Belle's Pancake House

3819 North Southport Avenue, Chicago, IL 60613 (map)

Josh Conley is single-handedly trying to re-introduce the verb beget into the everyday lexicon. He traveled to Easter Island one Christmas out of sheer irony. He excises a hefty syntax, and shamelessly promotes the color orange. His wife begat him two small children that he regularly belittles HERE.


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