[Photoraph: Nick Kindelsperger]

Steak sandwiches always seem to promise the world (at least to me), but they rarely deliver. I think it's because, as is the case with the Hanger Steak Sandwich ($14) at Atlas Brewing Company, the sandwich allows you the chance to eat steak at a semi-reasaonable price. I was also intrigued by the addition of fried jalapeƱos on top, which I imagined adding a gutsy crunch and genuine heat. Of course, the fried egg didn't hurt matters.

When you bite in, it's the egg that draws attention: the yolk bursts, coating the pieces of meat. Basically, this is steak and eggs in sandwich form. That's the good. But though very beefy, hanger steak also needs to be sliced thinly against the grain to be tender, and some of these slices were a tad too thick. Still, overall I was surprised how quickly I devoured this guy, even if I was left wondering if a burger patty would have made for a better fit. But then would I have ordered it? It's a question I didn't mind contemplating, especially since I had a glass of the brewery's Diversey Pale Ale in hand.

Atlas Brewing Company

2747 North Lincoln Avenue, Chicago, IL 60614 (map)

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