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[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

J.P. Graziano in the West Loop is steeped in tradition, and it shows in their consistent and awesome lineup of sandwiches. But they're trying something new, and it's the piadina ($11). Eschewing the D'Amato bread they always use, Graziano is importing this flatbread native to the Emilia Romagna region in Italy and topping it with a few amazing ingredients.

You can tell the prosciutto is top notch; it's smoky, moist and soft. The lemon vinaigrette is what brings it all together, both moistening and giving an edge to the intense savory flavors of the meat and whole milk mozzarella. You can barely see the cheese when you get the sandwich, because it's a very thin layer on the bottom. If there was any more of it it would probably overwhelm the thin meat and thin bread.

While this is a smaller option than most of their sandwiches, it's by no means just a lighter option for those who don't want a serious Italian sub. It's a different thing altogether, the bread being a simple, chewy vehicle for ingredients of incredible quality, where you can taste every flavor, none of them masking another. It has same effect as all their other sandwiches have on me: it makes me wonder why I ever lunch anywhere else.

J.P. Graziano

901 W Randolph St, Chicago IL 60607 (map)
312-666-4587
www.jpgraziano.com

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