Eat This Now: Crispy Redfish Tacos at Takito Kitchen

We love a lot more than sandwiches alone at Serious Eats, so in the spirit of A Sandwich a Day, here's Eat This Now, a quick look at what we're eating and want to talk about. —The Mgmt.

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[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

Is it possible to talk about Takito Kitchen in Wicker Park without mentioning Big Star and Antique Taco in the first paragraph? Apparently not. I mean, considering Takito is another trendy taco spot in Wicker Park, the temptation to name drop is hard to pass up. But what's most surprising about Takito is that it not only deserves to be mentioned in the same sentence as those two acclaimed joints, it does so by offering a completely unique taco experience.

After trying all of the tacos, it's hard to pick an absolute favorite. Instead, I'm going with the Crispy Redfish Tacos ($11), which I think neatly sum up what I love about the place. Chef David Dworshak is not afraid to play with flavors not usually associated with Mexican cuisine, but he does so while always showing respect for the ingredients. As the name suggests, the fish is certainly crispy, but it's also not one of those fish tacos that is half batter. Instead, you can really taste the redfish. The carrot jalapeño slaw shows some inspiration from a bánh mì, but it does so without hitting you over the head with it.

Not only is each taco at Takito served on handmade tortillas, most of the tortillas are also flavored to pair with the filling. In this case, the tortilla is laced with hibiscus, a flower used often in Mexico. That explains the purple tinge and the faint floral profile. With so much going on, it's kind of amazing that each taco is so compact and easy to devour.

Takito Kitchen

2013 West Division Street, Chicago, IL 60622 (map)
773-687-9620
takitokitchen.com

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