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[Photograph: Molly Durham]

Sometimes a fish sandwich, while great, is so covered in fried batter that you don't really feel like you're eating fish at all. This is not one of those sandwiches. Instead, the fish sandwich ($14) at Hutch is the kind that keeps it simple.

The blackened grouper tastes fishier than most fish sandwiches you'll find around, and that's because not much is done to it. It's topped with lettuce, tomato, pickles, and "special spread." That spread lends a spicy flavor that, accompanied with the blackened parts of the fish, creates a great char and cream combo taste. Sauce like this is usually on a heavier dish like a burger, and on a lighter sandwich it was necessary rather than just an enhancement.

Sadly, the wheat kaiser roll was so soggy two seconds after it hit the table it became as floppy as can be without totally falling apart. With a more substantial foundation, this thing would have had no negatives. I love seeing a restaurant not muddling a good piece of fish and adding just the right crisp additions and creamy kick.

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