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[Photographs: Chelsea Ross]

Hutch bills itself as an American bistro striving to make people feel comfortable and cook food that is cravable. In other words it's a restaurant. And true to its word, it's a solid one at that. The latest incarnation of the bygone Socca space is American comfort at its simplest and finest. By no means are they reinventing any wheels here. Rather, they're rebuffing the entire car.

For the finest example of Hutch's comfort capabilities, visit for brunch. As with any good American comfort food spot, the brunch menu at Hutch is borderline overkill. It toes the line between heinously indulgent and "oh, wouldn't it be cute to try croissant French toast?"

I don't know about the general population, but my mom never made monkey bread when I was a kid. Or ever. So I find it a little curious that Hutch describes their monkey bread ($5) as "yup, just like mom used to make." While enjoying this delicious rendition, I can wallow in the misery of my monkey bread-deprived childhood. And apparently what I was missing was a pastry that tastes like the innards of a toasted cinnamon-brown sugar Pop Tart, or even better, the plush center of a cinnamon roll. It's a doughy brown sugar bomb of a confection, rife with all the gooey, cloying comforts we yearn for in an American brunch spot.

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From here, it's a slippery slope to full-fledged gluttony via croissant French toast ($8). You hear that, Dominique Ansel? You're not the only one who can blaspheme the croissant. At Hutch, the dish is as straightforward and embarrassingly extravagant as it sounds. A croissant is split crosswise, filled with cream, battered, and pan-fried. Considering how buttery and rich this is, it's about the closest I'll get to actually consuming state fair-style deep-fried butter on a stick. It's got all the croissant-y flavors, but the texture goes from flaky to soft bread pudding. Take it or leave it. I took it.

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Always looking for an excuse to eat pizza in the morning in a way that doesn't involve huddling around my refrigerator, the breakfast flatbread ($10) is an exceptional savory option. Scrambled eggs, white cheddar, charred red onions, and bacon adorn the cracker-thin crust, offering the most quintessential breakfast flavors in one convenient easy-to-shovel-into-your-mouth package. Certain pieces are a little sparse on toppings, but it's well-cooked crispy dough and I'll gladly eat that any day.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Comforting brunch fare in a casual American bistro setting need not be tampered with, only fine-tuned, and Hutch does precisely that. A weekend meal here won't blow your mind, but it will blow out your belt and that's really what American brunch is all about.

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