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[Photograph: Tessa McLean]

There are a lot of bad breakfast sandwiches out there. Luckily, the mushroom, thyme and swiss frittata sandwich at Fabcakes doesn't succumb to the greasy problems that dominate Chicago's breakfast scene. In fact, it's light and so flavorful I didn't miss the sausage or bacon I usually demand out of my breakfast. The earthy mushrooms matched well with the prevalent, peppery thyme in the properly cooked eggs. The Swiss cheese melted throughout is understated for such a normally strong cheese.

The frittata is topped with fresh arugula, I assume to create a textural contrast, but gets lost between the frittata and the bottom half of the bagel. I longed for the fresh crunch of arugula instead of the soggy mess I got and feel like this could have been an easy fix by moving it to the top of the frittata.

You have the option to have any frittata sandwich on a bagel or croissant and after asking for a recommendation from the barista, I went with the bagel. Problem is it came on an everything bagel, which I normally love, but wouldn't recommend for this sandwich. The flavor of the everything bagel masked the taste of the other ingredients, and while aggravating, the bagel and frittata separately were so good it was hard to stay upset. A few tweaks and this may become my new Friday morning routine.

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