A Sandwich a Day

Reviews of Chicago sandwiches.

A Sandwich A Day: Warm Pot Roast Sandwich at Beatrix

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[Photograph: Tessa McLean]

When the Warm Pot Roast Sandwich at Beatrix ($13.95) shows up in front of me, I'm transfixed by the white cheddar bun. Nutty, sharp white cheddar is baked into the bun and it's so tasty, I could have stopped there. Why have I never had a bun like this? Mine even had an extra piece of the crispy cheese sticking out the side. I call that a bonus.

Piled high inside that beautiful bun is tender, juicy pot roast that falls apart as I bite into the rich sandwich. It's incredibly messy as the bun soaks up the juices, but I promise you'll use your fork to pick up every last savory shred on the plate. The sweet caramelized onions add to the richness and give a slight crunch. It's accompanied by a sparse sprinkling of watercress, which probably would have given some freshness to the sandwich if there had been more, but I didn't even care. The sandwich comes with a ramekin of thick, pungent horseradish sauce, but you don't even need it because the sandwich is so flavorful. It was nice for those extra bits of meat that fell off. The sandwich comes with a side of fries that are what you wish every plate of fries you get to be—well salted, crispy on the outside, and soft on the inside. This is a sandwich that's worth the high price tag.

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