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[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

There's no real reason these chicken wings ($9.00) from Joong Boo are so good. Don't get me wrong, I'm a huge fan of the crowded Korean market by I-90, which explains why I profiled the store last year. And I definitely love the steaming bowls of soup the restaurant in the back slings out. It's just that the little wings are fried ahead of time, stuffed into a takeout container, and then left to steam under heat lamps for who knows how long. They should be soft and greasy, with a coating that falls off immediately. Right?

But no, these wings are always crunchy, even hours after later. They also hold their integrity while coated in a sticky sweet and spicy sauce. Actually, the sauce leans more on the sweet side of things, giving them a slight candied edge, but that only makes me crave them like a five year old binging on yesterday's Halloween candy haul. Honestly, I get myself into this sugar high trance where I have no idea how many I've eaten or whether I'm even hungry or not.

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