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Reviews of Chicago sandwiches.

A Sandwich a Day: Buffalo Chicken French Dip at Schoolyard

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[Photograph: Tessa McLean]

I loved the idea of this sandwich. A Buffalo chicken French dip ($9.50)? Why haven't I seen this before? I always want more Buffalo sauce, so the ability to dip my sandwich in a "Buffalo jus" was just what I was looking for. When the sandwich from Schoolyard Tavern arrives, I peer at the "Buffalo au jus" with suspicion. It looks very thin, but then again, so is a regular au jus. They really go for the full concept with this thinned-out version of the buttery, vinegary sauce.

Here's the problem: the very thinly sliced chicken just can't retain much moisture, so I wish they'd drizzled some of the sauce on my sandwich to start me off, or dunked the chicken in some before plopping it on the bread. It's a little dry until you get some sauce on it, which is also harder than it should be; the ramekin isn't wide enough to dunk the sandwich in. Once you get everything together, though, it's pretty delicious. The melted provolone adds even more richness and the carrot celery sauce gives a slight crunch.

The whole thing is pressed and grilled and served with your choice of fries or tots, which at all Four Corners establishments are thin-cut and crispy on the outside, soft on the inside. My new mission might just be to find a better version of this sandwich.

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