[Photograph: Tessa McLean]

Chicagoans love their beef sandwiches, but there isn't enough love given to the humble steak sandwich. Hoping to fill that void in my life, I chose the Bistec Sandwich ($7) at a recent visit to 90 Miles Cuban Cafe. This Cuban oasis on Armitage is all about authentic, flavorful food in a casual environment that's hard not to fall for immediately while you're swaying to the Cuban music on a cold, snowy day.

The downfall of a steak sandwich is usually the steak itself; it's easy to overcook a thin slice of steak like the one that so many Latin restaurants use for their sandwiches. This steak was anything but that—it was tender, juicy, and seasoned simply to allow the taste of the meat to be the star. The meat sits atop crusty, pressed french bread, with a soft inside dressed lightly in chimichurri. 90 Miles definitely has their own version of the Argentine sauce, but what it lacked in spice, it made up for with its own combination of vibrant herbs and olive oil.

The grilled onions retain some of their crunch and accompany a leaf of romaine and a few thin tomato slices. Despite the sandwich arriving completely covered in shoestring potatoes, the actual amount between the bread is sparse, lending just a hint of needed saltiness. You know it's good when you're sad you don't have leftovers to take home.

90 Miles Cuban Cafe

90 Miles Cuban Cafe

  • Logan Square

2540 W Armitage Ave at Stave St Chicago IL 60647 7732272822

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