A Hamburger Today
Cellar Door Provisions Serves Sensational Bread in Logan Square
A few months ago, Logan Square lost La Boulangerie, the small triangle-shaped bakery on the corner of Milwaukee Ave. and Logan Boulevard. This is not a complete surprise; after all, this was the same place that was forced to sell macaroons by the dozen because of a non-compete clause with nearby New Wave Coffee. And all is not completely lost, since the shop has a Kickstarter campaign to help reopen (though it is very far from its $80,000 goal). Still, the absence is noticeable. So where can you go now for crusty loaves in Logan Square?
Cellar Door Provisions isn't exactly a replacement for La Boulangerie. For one thing, the shop only makes one kind bread (though they do sell a range of pastries). But who cares about choice when that one is such a genuine wonder? The loaves are gorgeous, with a browned and crusty exterior and a tangy and full-flavored interior. It's bread with personality, and it needs little more than salty butter.
But what if you want something a bit more substantial? Obviously, this kind of crusty bread wouldn't do on a sandwich. Cellar Door Provisions realizes this, and instead offers up open-faced tartines. There is absolutely no question that the option available on my visit—watermelon radish and carrot with house kefir and charred onions—is beautiful. I mean, just look at it! But it's also immensely satisfying, and proof that there are still appealing vegetables during the winter.
I'm looking forward to getting back to try the rest of the menu, but it's going to be nearly impossible to visit without some bread involved. This is bread worth rolling up your sleeves for—just don't mind all the crumbs on your table.