Don't Miss Lunch at Cellar Door Provisions

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[Photographs: Joe Roy]

For the past four Saturdays, I've put an 8 a.m. call in to Cellar Door Provisions to reserve a loaf of their exemplary bread. We've enjoyed it in various ways: slice for slice hunkered around the cutting board with Kerrygold Butter I've started keeping around, as the centerpiece of a dinner for out of town guests, and most recently, as the base of a pretty amazing grilled cheese sandwich. These bread runs have all been hit it and quit it, but I recently decided to break protocol and stick around for a bite to eat. Twist my arm.

Forget about that loaf you've already stashed away in your bag: you're crazy if you don't start every meal here with a slice of Bread and Butter ($2.00). As hearty and tangy as you remember, somehow these butter topped slices taste even better than they do at home.

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The Roasted Carrot Salad ($9.00) is the kind of dish you tell yourself you could make on your own—slow roasting carrots until sweet and caramelized isn't that hard—it's sourcing the high quality whipped keffir and tender elderflower greens that may prove challenging.

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The kitchen plays fast and loose with the concept of Panzanella ($12.00), so don't expect a juicy bread salad. Instead, a thick slice of the house bread is hard fried in oil until crisp and topped with lightly dressed greens and a soft boiled egg. Break the egg over the bread, and get a little bit of everything in each bite. You won't even miss the tomatoes.

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Forgive the greens-focused picture; there's a crisped, skin-up filet of Trout ($14.00) under there that's worthy of your attention. The subtle fish crackles under fork, and the sweet bite of the quickly cooked spring onion bulbs are a nice contrast to the salad of fresh day lilies.

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Cellar Door Provisions is the sort of place I never want to leave, and they make it easy to stay all day: fresh bread and breakfast dishes are available at 8 a.m., pastries start hitting the counter at 9, and the day's butcher paper scrawled lunch offerings are available at 11. It doesn't really matter how you choose to spend your time here, just as long as you do.

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