The Italian grinder at D'Agostino's in River West does its best to avoid anything resembling subtlety. All the salty and heavy meats (capicola, pepperoni, salami, and ham) fight for dominance on your palate, while a blanket of melted provolone covers as much as possible.
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Every other week we like to bring you another Neighborhood Guide, which details the places local chefs and food writers actually frequent in their on 'hoods. Last time, Time Out's Julia Kramer gave us a rundown of Wicker Park (with just a little bit of Bucktown thrown in for good measure). This week, Phil Rubino, the new chef de cuisine at Moderno, walks us through Wrigleyville.