Along the back wall of the Chicago French Market sits Fumare Meats, home of best brisket sandwich of any type in town. The Montreal-style smoked pastrami ($8.99) is miraculously tender and so flavorful that there's no need at all to use the horseradish-heavy mustard that comes with it. The rye bread is on the soft side, which is less than ideal. The good news is that for $14, you can buy an entire pound of the meat and put it on any bread you like. But don't wait until too late in the day to get there. Fumare makes 100 pounds of smoked meat each day and they almost always sell out.
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