If, as an extremely hyperbolic treatise in the Chicago Reader claims, all cocktail loving Chicagoans are "doomed" because Scofflaw, a brand new bar in Logan Square, refused to write a gin-only cocktail list (or something like that), then that's fine. Because while the writer in question is at her militant gin-only establishment, I can't think of a better place to wait out the alcoholic end of days than at the charming and comfortable Scofflaw. It's the kind of unpretentious place where I can get an expertly made cocktail for $8, my friend can order a beer, and the both of us can sip them in a room with windows that lets in sunshine. The gall.
The good-natured vibe translates over to the menu, which mostly ignores the frilly toothpick hors d'oeuvres of more sophisticated lounges, and instead serves the kind of filling food one would want after having downed a Martinez too many. That definitely includes the cheek sandwich ($8), which features braised pork cheek and sliced cabbage on a toasted brioche bun. Well thought out but not too fussy, the sandwich shows obvious care, but doesn't draw too much attention to itself. Basically, the cocktails are the main draw, but the food is there when you need it the most. I like that.