TGI Fry-Day: Vegetarian Salad at The Athenian Room

TGI Fry-Day

Reviews of fried food in Chicago.


[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

I'm not sure what is more hilarious, the fact that The Athenian Room has something called a vegetarian salad ($7.00) on its menu, or that the salad in question arrives topped with a whole bunch of thick cut fries. I know this: it shouldn't work. I mean, is there even a precedent for this creation?

The salad is solidly built, certainly better than most cucumber-heavy Greek salads, but there is no question that the fries are the highlight. Though almost certainly the same frozen steak fries you can find at numerous other joints, these are also fried until very crisp and tossed with loads of dried herbs. The result is so strangely satisfying that I found it hard to stop eating. When I ate the last one there was a final surprise: that basic salad was now perfumed with scent of those fries, which meant I had to polish it off, too.

Athenian Room

807 West Webster Avenue, Chicago, IL 60614 (map)