A Sandwich a Day: Delta Po' Boy at Chicago Diner

A Sandwich a Day

Reviews of Chicago sandwiches.


[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

Whatever you think of Chicago Diner, the place certainly has chutzpah. Though by its very nature a vegetarian establishment, every day it must recreate diner classics, many of which are inordinately meaty. Instead of shying away and focuses on salads or something like that, it challenges each diner totem head on and with all it's got. Miraculously, it occasionally works, as is the case with the Radical Reuben, which is made with thinly sliced seitan soaked in beet juice and pickling juice. It doesn't replace the original, but it is at least tasty.

With a second location now open in Logan Square, I figured it was time to examine what other ridiculously over the top sandwich Chicago Diner could transform. The current sandwich special is the Delta Po' Boy ($10.99). Instead of using a fake meat, blackened tofu is used, a move I initially feared, but the slices managed to carry a decent amount of flavor. No one would confuse this for the real thing, nor does it satisfy in the same strange way the reuben does, but thanks to the the fried banana peppers and creamy slaw, it does add up to a decent sandwich.

Chicago Diner

2333 Milwaukee Avenue, Chicago, Illinois 60647 (map)