After kind of bad-mouthing all gyros cut from one of those preformed cylinders—a.k.a. 99.99% of the gyros out there—I realized I needed to atone. While most are overbearing and greasy, there had to be a place that did it right. If you have the same kind of crisis of confidence, make your way to Central Gyros in the northwest neighborhood of Belmont Cragin.
At first glance, nothing about the gyros sandwich ($5.95) looks particularly different about the setup. A whole heap of sliced meat is piled on a pita with all the usual suspects. But take a closer look, and you'll notice that the meat is shaved extra thin, almost to the point where the strips curl like ribbons. The result is a sandwich that you can actually pick up and eat without half the contents falling out. Plus, you can finally appreciate the other toppings, including the sharp bite of the crisp onion and the tangy tzatziki (no gloopy "white sauce" here). A squeeze of lemon further helps to lighten each bite.