TGI Fry-Day: Buffalo Style Tofu 'Wings' at Ground Control

TGI Fry-Day

Reviews of fried food in Chicago.


[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

Whenever a dish requires quotation marks, you can safely assume it's probably not that thing. Sure, it may share a similar flavor profile and look, but it usually differs in some monumental way. That's definitely the case the Buffalo style tofu "wings" ($6.75) at Ground Control, which trade chicken wings for rectangular slabs of tofu that have been battered, fried, and tossed in Buffalo sauce.

But while the dish may lack a real connection to its source material, it's also worth noting that crispy fried tofu isn't such a bad thing. That's especially true when tossed in that familiar buttery and slightly spicy sauce we all know and love (well, I love it). Obviously, it's missing out on the meatiness of a properly fried chicken wing (find some of our favorite examples here), but if you're visiting the completely meatless eatery in Logan Square, you're probably okay with that. Also, whereas chicken wings require you to pull up sleeves and get messy, these can be sliced into bite-sized pieces, ideal for dunking into the blue cheese ranch sauce.

Ground Control

3315 West Armitage Avenue, Chicago, IL 60647 (map)