Eat This Now: Tempura Vegetables at Yusho


[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

If I'm eating at Yusho, I'm usually there for the grilled food. In fact, my wife and I only ordered the tempura vegetables ($12) to tide us over until all of those meaty offerings came off the bincho-fueled grill. But after a few bites, we had to restrain ourselves from filling up before anything had a chance to feel the flames.

The vegetables are lightly coated in a greaseless batter, which surprisingly maintains its integrity even as it cools. Most of the mix is made of green beans, which are pleasingly crisp and sweet. But it's the other vegetables that are worth hunting for, including spicy whole shishito peppers, creamy slices of eggplant, and crackly sheets of swiss chard. That last one really shocked me the most; I didn't even know one could even fry swiss chard, let alone that it would come out so stunningly well.

Unlike most of Yusho's offerings, this is a very generous portion, perhaps making it better to share with a larger group. That explains why we were initially hesitant finishing it all. Fortunately, after a brief pause, we dug back in.


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